Here are a few questions about computers I’ve received recently from people like you, and my answers. I have edited and restated the questions a bit, for readability.

I have a PC with Windows XP, which I bought because my computer guru said to stay away from Vista. I read your column saying upgrading from XP to the new Windows 7 will be much more cumbersome than doing so from Windows Vista. So, what should I do now? Upgrade to Vista for a while so I can then move more smoothly to 7? Or wait, buy a separate Windows 7 computer in the fall, and just transfer my files and applications from the XP computer?

Putting budget considerations aside, I think the latter course would make more sense. The new machine with Windows 7 preloaded will probably give you smoother performance than one you upgraded twice to new operating systems in a matter of months. But, bear in mind that you will have to reinstall all your applications on the new Windows 7 computer, and that, depending on the terms of the applications’ licenses, you might even have to buy new copies. On the other hand, if you do the chain of upgrades, and don’t buy a new machine, you may be able to avoid this application problem, or at least much of it.

I appreciated your review of the Clickfree automatic backup drive. Does the backup it creates include the various folders and subfolders for data such as photos, or does it just create a huge single list?

The Clickfree software is primarily designed to back up, display and restore your files by their types — photos, music, text, email, spreadsheets, etc. Once it has performed a backup it lets you view and restore your files by these types. However, it will display the tree of all your folders and allow you to specify where it should search for these files. It also allows you to back up and restore entire folders, such as your My Documents folder, regardless of their contents. Detailed information, including a downloadable user manual, is available in the Support section of clickfree.com.

I am planning to buy one of the products you recently reviewed — a Western Digital My Book — and attach it directly to a port on my Internet router. Can I install antispyware and antivirus programs on the drive? If not, how will the data on this drive be protected?

Nothing is perfectly secure. The bad guys are clever, and you never say never. However, since this product isn’t an actual PC running Windows, viruses and spyware programs can’t likely run directly on it. Still, if one of your computers contains malicious software, and it can see the contents of the network drive, then the data on the drive could be endangered. I know of no way to install or run security programs on the drive. But the security software on your PC may protect the drive, if it is able to handle external drives across a network. Also, the firewall built into your network router will help. The product has some security measures built in, such as encrypting files when you use the optional feature that allows you to access the drive’s contents across the Internet.

• You can find Mossberg’s Mailbox, and my other columns, online free of charge at the new All Things Digital Web site, http://walt.allthingsd.com.

We are connected to Comcast (CMCSA) cable and use no antennas. Will we need one of the government-subsidized converter boxes next February?

Not if you are using a cable set-top box, like the vast majority of cable customers. If you are one of the minority of cable households whose TVs use an internal cable tuner, you may need a converter box. To be sure, contact your cable company or TV manufacturer.

In your laptop buying guide last week, you recommended buying a machine equipped for the “n” type Wi-Fi of wireless router. I was under the impression that this has not yet been standardized. Is that wrong?

The engineering committee that has been debating the standard for years has not yet completed its work, but the market has simply moved ahead on its own. This new, faster version of Wi-Fi is being built into routers, computers and other devices by nearly every major manufacturer. In my limited tests, I have found no compatibility problems, and it is backwards compatible with the older “g” and “b” standards.

Is the Mac immune to viruses? If not, do you have a recommendation of the type of antivirus software one should procure and load onto a Mac?

No personal computer or personal computer operating system of which I am aware is “immune” to viruses, spyware or other malicious software. That includes Apple’s (AAPL) Macintosh and its operating system, Mac OS X Leopard. Hackers have demonstrated the ability to invade the Mac. However, there are only a handful of viruses or other malicious programs for the Macintosh that have successfully spread beyond the lab. And these have harmed only a small number of actual users.

Of the well over 100,000 known viruses, spyware programs and other malicious software applications that are about in public, all but this handful are written to run on Microsoft (MSFT) Windows, and cannot operate on the Macintosh OS. For that reason, I don’t believe Macintosh owners need security software, unless they install and run Windows on their computers. If they do run Windows, Mac owners are well advised to purchase and install Windows security software to protect the Windows portion of the machine.

Having said that, I do not mean that Mac owners should be blind to security threats that don’t involve viruses or spyware. Just like Windows users, Mac users can succumb to what is called “social engineering” — scams and schemes that operate via email and Web sites that are often authored by crooks but made to look official. So, like Windows users, they must be on their guard.

You can find Mossberg’s Mailbox, and my other columns, online free at the All Things Digital web site, http://walt.allthingsd.com.

With the new iPods coming out, how do you deactivate an old one? I think Apple only allows a certain number to be used with an account.

You don’t have to deactivate an iPod if you replace it. The copy-protection rules imposed on Apple by the entertainment companies allow for copy-protected music and videos purchased from the iTunes Music Store to be stored and played on an unlimited number of iPods.

The only “deactivation” iTunes users have to perform is on a computer — Windows or Mac — because the copy-protection rules allow purchased, copy-protected songs and videos to be played on no more than five computers at a time. So, before you replace a computer on which you are storing such purchased, protected iTunes material, you should deauthorize the machine by going to the “Store” menu in iTunes and selecting “Deauthorize Computer…”.

Of course, if you aren’t at or near the five-computer limit, this issue may not matter. It’s also irrelevant if none of the music or videos you play from within iTunes is copy-protected material purchased from the iTunes store. You can happily use iTunes and iPods without buying any copy-protected stuff from Apple. You can restrict your music and videos to those you copy from legally obtained CDs, those you create yourself, or those you buy in unprotected formats from iTunes, or other sites, like eMusic.

I have a printer hard-wired to a desktop computer, but would like it to be available to my laptop wirelessly over my home network. How can I do this?

There are two main methods, assuming the printer doesn’t have a built-in networking port or Wi-Fi transmitter. One method is to buy a small box called a print server and plug it into your router. Then, you plug the printer into the print server, and, with the right software and settings, it will appear on your network and be available to any computer on the network, wired or wireless.

The same companies that make routers, such as Linksys and Belkin, also often make these print servers. The other method is to buy a wireless router that has such a print-server function built-in, with a USB port for connecting a printer.

If I have a laptop with Wi-Fi capability, does that mean I can surf the Web while sitting in a car?

Yes, but only if the car is in range of a Wi-Fi network that is either open (not password-protected) or for which you know the password. And it would only be practical if the car was stopped or parked, since a car moving at normal speed would very quickly drive out of range of any networks you encountered.

A better option, which works even when a car is moving, is to purchase a high-speed cellular wireless modem for your laptop, or buy a laptop with such a modem built-in. These modems, which get you on the Internet via citywide cellular-data networks instead of Wi-Fi, can remain in range for miles. But they require hefty fees, typically $60 a month. And, of course, you should only be surfing the net in a moving car if you are a passenger in that car, not the driver.

You can find Mossberg’s Mailbox, and my other columns, online for free at the new All Things Digital Web site, http://walt.allthingsd.com.

Write to Walter S. Mossberg at mossberg@wsj.com

Here are a few questions about computers I’ve received recently from people like you, and my answers. I have edited and restated the questions a bit, for readability. This week my mailbox contained questions about whether to buy a smart phone now or wait for the iPhone, boosting the range of a wireless connection, and removing junk programs that come with a new computer.

I am in the market for a new smart phone. Should I wait for the Apple iPhone? When will it be available and when will you review it?

Apple says the iPhone is on track to go on sale in “late June,” and I expect to be able to test it and publish a review around that time. There will also be many other reviews around then that you can consult.

I stand by my earlier advice, which is that people shopping for a smart phone, who can wait until then, and who could imagine shelling out $499–the iPhone’s base price–should wait to read the reviews of Apple’s first phone and take a look at it before making a decision. However, if you need a smart phone now, or can’t imagine spending that much, then you can ignore the hype and buy a BlackBerry, or a Treo, or another competitor.

Three other key factors could also make you reasonably ignore the iPhone. It will lack a physical keyboard, relying on virtual keys that appear on the screen, so if you prefer a real keyboard, the iPhone would be a nonstarter for you. Also, it will only work on the AT&T wireless network (formerly Cingular) in the U.S. So, if you prefer another wireless carrier, forget the iPhone. Finally, it will only operate on a relatively slow network technology, called EDGE, so if you want a smart phone that operates on the fastest cellular networks, the iPhone is the wrong choice, even though it will also include Wi-Fi wireless networking.

The wireless connection to my wife’s Windows XP computer keeps going down. The computer is about 75 feet (but through three walls) from my Dell Truemobile 2300 router. Should I assume I need a better, more powerful router? And, finally, will it also connect to my MacBook Pro laptop?

A more powerful router might help, but wireless reception varies greatly depending on home construction and layout. You might look for a new router that features a technology called MIMO, which I have found in my tests can improve both speed and range. Even with a new router, you might also have to move its location. There are also various boosters and repeaters that can be used, though some of these require more technical expertise to install than most folks have.

One good method for extending the range of a wireless connection is to buy a set of so-called powerline adapters. These carry your network signal over plain old electrical lines, and some models allow you to create a wireless network by plugging a wireless router into such an adapter in a distant room. I described these adapters in more detail in a column you can find at: ptech.allthingsd.com/20060817/powerline-adapters-access.

In my own home, I have used both MIMO routers, and powerline adapters, successfully with mixtures of Windows and Apple Macintosh computers, including the MacBook Pro, and various Dell, Lenovo and Hewlett-Packard laptops.

Can I remove the junk programs that came with my new computer–the ones you call “craplets”–by using the “Add or Remove Programs” control panel in Windows?

Yes, but that is a tedious manual process and may not get them all. Also, in Windows Vista, that control panel has been renamed and is now called “Programs and Features.”

Instead, I would suggest first downloading and running a free program specifically designed to eliminate craplets, the crippled trial programs and advertising come-ons that are now packed into so many new Windows PCs. This program is called “The PC Decrapifier” and can be found at pcdecrapifier.com. If this program misses a few of the junk items you want gone, you can then use the manual method.

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Because of the volume of email I receive, I can’t routinely answer individual questions by email, or consult on individual problems or purchasing decisions. I read all questions I receive and select three each week to answer in the column.

Write to Walter S. Mossberg at mossberg@wsj.com

Here are a few questions about computers I’ve received recently from people like you, and my answers. I have edited and restated the questions a bit, for readability. This week my mailbox contained questions securing a wireless network, adapters that play the music stored on a PC through a stereo and voice-recognition software.

Last week you advised readers that, in order to stop people from piggybacking on a wireless network using a Linksys router, they should simply set up a password and keep it private. But don’t they need to enable an “encryption key?”

Yes. Most nontechnical folks would consider an encryption key as a kind of password, and that’s the word I used because I always try to write my columns in plain, conversational English. In this case, however, my use of the term may have caused confusion, because there are, in effect, two kinds of passwords on Linksys routers and most other brands of routers. One just prevents strangers from changing the router’s settings. The other — the one to which I was referring — is required to actually access the wireless network. That’s the one that’s technically called a “key.”

To enable the encryption key, use the router’s setup software to turn on security. On newer models, the strongest security system is called WPA, and on older models, it’s called WEP. Once it’s enabled, only people who know the key can get onto your network. There are further steps you can take, like hiding your network’s name (called an SSID) from others, or even restricting access to the network to specific computers with specific identification codes (called MAC addresses, a term that has nothing to do with Apple’s brand of computers.)

For more details, go to Linksys.com, select “Learning Center” at the top of the page, and click on “Network Security” from the menu that appears. And then click on the link called “How to Secure Your Network.”

Is there a stereo that I can buy that can wirelessly connect to my computer and play the same music I play with Apple’s iTunes on that computer?

Yes. If you literally mean a stereo, rather than an adapter for a stereo, the best I know of is called Sonos ZonePlayer 100. It involves a module you connect to your computer that links wirelessly to stereo units with built-in amps in remote rooms of your house. It has a beautiful remote control with a color screen and many other great features.

But it’s expensive — about $1,200 for the starter package, without speakers — and can’t play copy-protected music you buy from iTunes, only music you import from your CDs or other unprotected files. Information is at sonos.com. For much less money, you can also buy adapters that can play the music on a PC, or an iPod, through an existing stereo.

I have been keeping a journal or diary. It is hand written but I would like to make the journal more readable by others. Is there voice-recognition software that you would recommend, so I can dictate the entries?

It has been years since I reviewed voice-recognition software, but Dragon Naturally Speaking, a Windows program, works well. For more information, see nuance.com. And Microsoft’s new Vista operating system has a decent built-in voice recognition system. If you are using a Macintosh, one widely known speech-recognition program is called iListen, but I haven’t tested it. Information is at macspeech.com.

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Because of the volume of e-mail I receive, I can’t routinely answer individual questions by e-mail, or consult on individual problems or purchasing decisions. I read all questions I receive and select three each week to answer in the column.

• Write to Walter S. Mossberg at mossberg@wsj.com

Here are a few questions about computers I’ve received recently from people like you, and my answers. I have edited and restated the questions a bit, for readability. This week my mailbox contained questions about using Quicken in Vista, blocking people from piggybacking on your wireless router signal and waiting for Mac’s Leopard operating system.

We waited to purchase our new computer until Windows Vista was released. We now have a new HP Pavilion 9000 and were trudging along the learning curve when we came to a complete halt — there is no version of Quicken available for Vista. Since we use Quicken extensively, we are stuck using our old computer. When can we expect to be able to use Quicken on Vista?

I haven’t tested Quicken in Vista, but Quicken’s maker says it works fine in Vista, though you may have to download and install a free update. According to Intuit, the manufacturer, “Quicken 2007 has been tested with Microsoft Windows Vista, and no known issues exist in the most current release.” The current release of Quicken 2007 is called “Release 4 (R4).” If your release is R3 or below, you will have to download and install a patch. You can find more information by going to quicken.custhelp.com and typing “Vista” into the search box.

I use a Linksys Wi-Fi router in my home. How can I make sure that no one else is piggybacking on my signal?

It’s pretty simple. Turn on the password feature in your router, and don’t tell anyone the password. You’ll usually find the password setting in the installation software that came with the router.

I’m thinking of buying a new iMac, but should I wait until Apple releases its new Leopard operating system? When will that be?

Apple is saying that Leopard, the coming version of its Mac OS X operating system, will be released this spring. Based on past experience, any Mac you buy now should be able to run Leopard fine. In recent years, Apple’s operating-system upgrades have been much smoother than Microsoft’s. So, if you really need the new Mac now, I wouldn’t worry about Leopard.

However, if you can wait a few months, and buy your iMac with Leopard preinstalled, I suggest doing so. For one thing, you’ll save some money, since Apple usually charges $129 for new operating systems. For another, it’s possible that Apple will also improve the iMac hardware, though I stress that I know of no such plan.

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Because of the volume of e-mail I receive, I can’t routinely answer individual questions by e-mail, or consult on individual problems or purchasing decisions. I read all questions I receive and select three each week to answer in the column.

• Write to Walter S. Mossberg at mossberg@wsj.com

Here are a few questions about computers I’ve received recently from people like you, and my answers. I have edited and restated the questions a bit, for readability. This week my mailbox contained questions about completely erasing a PC, installing Verizon’s Fios Internet service, and using a Firefox Web browser on an iMac.

If you have a question, send it to me at mossberg@wsj.com, and I may select it to be answered here in Mossberg’s Mailbox.

I am giving my PC to my sister and I would like to completely erase my files from the hard drive. How can I do this?

What you need to do is wipe out the files in a way that is more thorough than merely deleting them in the standard manner. This process is often called “wiping” files, and makes the files impossible, or at least very difficult, to recover. It works by overwriting the portion of the hard disk formerly occupied by a file’s data with nonsense characters.

You could format the disk, but that also would wipe out the operating system, which would require your sister to buy and install a new copy. So you need a program that wipes out only the folders and files you target. On an Apple Macintosh, this capability is built in. You just move the files to the trash and then select “Secure Empty Trash” instead of the usual “Empty Trash” command.

On Windows, you need add-on software. There are many programs that do this, but one that I have tested and can recommend is Window Washer, which is available at webroot.com for $30. You can find others by doing a Web search for “file wipe” or by doing a similar search at download.com.

If you install the new high-speed Verizon Fios Internet service you recently reviewed, do you have to upgrade your wireless network?

It depends. Verizon will supply you with either a wired or wireless router, the box that transmits your Internet connection. If your current Wi-Fi network is slower than the maximum speed of Fios, you should take the Verizon wireless router. For instance, if you have the 15 megabits per second version of Fios, but only have a Wi-Fi “b” type network, which works at a maximum of 11 mbps, take the Verizon wireless router and allow Verizon to install it in place of your current one. The Verizon wireless model works on the newer “g” flavor of Wi-Fi, which can handle speeds of as much as 54 mbps.

You also will need to make sure that all the PCs you are planning to connect wirelessly to Fios have “g” type Wi-Fi connections. If even one of them has “b” equipment, it will drag down the whole wireless network to the lower speed of “b.” (This doesn’t affect wired connections to computers.)

However, if your wireless router is fast enough, and you like it, you can keep it with Fios service. I did, because I am using the Belkin “Pre-N” router, which has better speed and range than any “g” router I’ve seen. I just took the plain old wired router from Verizon and plugged my Belkin wireless router into it. Others have dispensed with the Verizon gear entirely, and just plugged the Fios cable directly into their wireless routers. The main downside here is that Verizon says the routers it installs contain special software that can help diagnose Fios problems.

Can I use the Firefox browser on my iMac? I am running version 9.1 of the operating system.

Unfortunately, no. While Firefox works on the Mac, it requires the newer Apple operating system, Mac OS X, which was introduced in 2001. Firefox requires Mac OS X 10.1, at a minimum. Your computer has an entirely different, older, and much less capable operating system, which Apple has pretty much abandoned.

By the way, for Windows users, Firefox requires Windows 98 or higher. For both platforms, there also are minimum hardware requirements. Firefox also runs on the Linux operating system, and has minimum requirements on that platform as well. Requirements for all platforms are at: www.mozilla.org/products/firefox/system-requirements.

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Because of the volume of e-mail I receive, I can’t routinely answer individual questions by e-mail, or consult on individual problems or purchasing decisions. I read all questions I receive and select three each week to answer in the column.

Write to Walter S. Mossberg at mossberg@wsj.com

Here are a few questions about computers I’ve received recently from people like you, and my answers. I have edited and restated the questions a bit, for readability. This week my mailbox contained questions about browsers’ antivirus capabilities, smartphone memory, Wi-Fi router speeds and the limits of burning songs from iTunes.

If you have a question, send it to me at mossberg@wsj.com, and I may select it to be answered here in Mossberg’s Mailbox.

Because of the volume of e-mail I receive, I can’t routinely answer individual questions by e-mail, or consult on individual problems or purchasing decisions. I read all questions I receive and select three each week to answer in the column.

Does the Firefox browser that you recommend contain antivirus capabilities?

No. I know of no Web browser that includes the ability to block, detect or remove viruses. For that, you need separate antivirus software, which every Windows user should obtain and keep updated. You should also run a strong firewall program and an antispyware program.

Firefox does omit some of the features in Microsoft’s Internet Explorer browser that digital criminals have misused to place malicious software on computers. This doesn’t mean that Firefox is perfectly safe. As it has become more popular, some vulnerabilities in the new browser have been uncovered, and it’s likely that digital criminals will get better at exploiting these vulnerabilities. Still, on balance, Firefox is more secure than Internet Explorer.

I am thinking about upgrading to the new Treo 650 smartphone from PalmOne. But I would like to know if the company ever fixed the memory problem you wrote about with the initial Treo 650 units?

Yes. Sprint, the cellphone carrier that launched the Treo 650, has — just this week — issued a patch from PalmOne that supposedly remedies the memory problem. I haven’t tested it, so I can’t say if it works.

The memory problem, which mainly affected power users, didn’t impair the basic functionality of the phone. But it caused databases, like address books and digital dictionaries and maps, to take up more room on the 650 than the same files had occupied on the earlier Treo 600 model. The patch issued this week revises the way the 650 manages memory so these large files take up less memory. It may not restore the full efficiency of the older memory system, but it should ease the problem significantly.

I just signed up for DSL broadband service with a maximum speed of 1.5 megabits per second. Which type of Wi-Fi wireless router should I buy in order to handle the maximum speed — the “b” type or the “g” type?

Either type has enough capacity to handle the top speed of your new service. The “b” routers top out at 11 megabits per second, and the “g” models can go up to 54 megabits per second, though they drop back to the speed of “b” if you have any “b” equipment on the wireless network.

If I buy songs from the iTunes Music Store, or one of its competitors, can I record these songs to blank CDs in order to make music CDs that can be played in my home CD player?

Yes. Song files purchased from iTunes and other legal download sites can be recorded, or “burned,” to CD an unlimited number of times. And, they can be combined with any other songs, either those you purchase or those you create from your own commercial CDs. These CDs you burn can be played on most home, auto and portable CD players. The only limitation is that you can’t burn the exact same collection of songs, in the exact same order, to CD more than seven times.

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Because of the volume of e-mail I receive, I can’t routinely answer individual questions by e-mail, or consult on individual problems or purchasing decisions. I read all questions I receive and select three each week to answer in the column.

Write to Walter S. Mossberg at mossberg@wsj.com